A prom dress failed to reach Buena Vista in time, the misdelivery of glass enamels ordered from Canada stalled work for an artist, and scientists at a high-elevation biological lab above Crested Butte sought alternatives to the USPS for handling time-sensitive material.

From Steamboat Springs to Salida, western Colorado residents say they rely on the postal service as never before because Amazon and other delivery trucks often don’t deliver in mountain areas. It’s a matter of being included, residents say, as part of the global economy.

But the USPS is mired in debt topping $144 billion and administrators are cutting costs, which may include closing “rural” facilities, according to a GAO report this summer.

Meanwhile, shortages of mail carriers to deliver packages and post office clerks have plagued communities across western Colorado.

“It started a month or so ago. The postmaster for this area in Rifle left, and then the deputy postmaster left. And they also were down at least two carriers,” Silt’s public works director Trey Fonner lamented, noting that his wife counts on mail to receive prescribed medicine.

When they went to Silt’s post office, they were surprised to learn four packages had arrived for them with no notices sent, Fonner said. “If a bill was to come through, we might never get it.”

USPS officials blamed mail problems in mountain towns on staffing shortages and “increased demand,” saying they’ve been on a hiring blitz, filling 3,900 positions this past year in Colorado and Wyoming.  They’re scrambling to fill another 300 positions, including six carriers in the area around Rifle and Silt, agency spokesman James Boxrud said.

“We improved the cleanliness and accessibility of our offices. We have doubled our efforts to keep our post offices staffed,” Boxrud said via email.

“And while we are far from being at full strength we are in much better shape. Those efforts have paid off as regular mail service has been restored and we intend to keep it that way,” he said.

Postal service data on package volumes in the Rocky Mountain West is “proprietary,” Boxrud said, and postal officials refused to release it.

U.S. Sen. Michael Bennet, Rep. Brittany Pettersen, and Rep. Joe Neguse have been pressing for meetings with Postmaster General James DeJoy in Washington D.C.,  demanding better service.

“It is still a problem,” Pettersen said, after sending hundreds of complaints from residents to DeJoy with a letter alerting him of “infrequent mail delivery” and urging him to “end the staffing shortages in Colorado.”

A year ago, postal woes got so bad that residents in Buena Vista protested outside their local post office. This prompted postal officials to end a practice of charging residents for post office boxes even where residents don’t receive direct delivery for free.

While providing no-fee post boxes in rural areas is an improvement, Pettersen said, “the problem is that most things cannot fit into those boxes.” And recurring postal worker shortages still lead to wrap-around lines to collect parcels for which USPS contracts with Amazon and others to provide “last-mile” delivery.

“What we want to see are systemic changes, making sure they are not leaving behind these smaller communities,” she said.

Under the Constitution, Congress has the power “to make all laws” necessary to maintain postal service, and “universal service” is legally required even in rural areas where delivery isn’t profitable.

Mountainous western Colorado historically has ranked among the hardest parts of the country for delivering mail. Starting in the 1880s, skiing postmen risked their lives to carry letters and packages over rocky passes to isolated residents in mining towns.

Rapid population growth over the past five decades has led to high expectations for swift delivery in areas that once were accepted as remote.

What could go wrong?

“Everything at every point,” said artist Evelyn Baker, 67, a 20-year resident of Buena Vista who has endured supply delivery failures and has been seeking a refund after paying fees for a post office box.

“The frustrations are rising because every time you order something you need, your only option is to have it shipped by USPS. You are on pins and needles. We are so much at the mercy of the post office,” Baker said.

When an order arrives “they put your stuff into a locker” and are supposed to place a notice or a key for access in a resident’s box, she said. But shoddy service has included mix-ups, delays, misdeliveries, and hour-long lines to reach clerks. Baker recently walked to the Buena Vista post office four times trying to locate a $350 shipment of glass enamels. She cited the case of a local high school student who ordered a dress for her prom and received only a notice, two days before the prom, that a package was expected in Denver.

“How heartbreaking is that? For dresses for formal and semi-formal events for young girls, there’s just no place in town where that’s available. Either you drive to the city along the Front Range or else you have to order online.”

Across the mountains in Avon, Mayor Amy Phillips said increased online shopping lies at the core of the breakdowns. “It came to a head during COVID. That’s what pushed it over the top to be unsustainable” due to the “sheer volume” of packages that the postal service had to deliver, Phillips said.

Rising expectations for package delivery are reasonable, she contends, pointing out that Avon and other mountain towns now are urban – “very high density in the town core with a lot of apartments.”

“Paying $2,000 a square foot for a residence here, the same as in Manhattan, you should have the same postal service,” she said.

Town leaders have appealed to postal service supervisors to expedite hiring and relax testing. Phillips said the USPS should no longer be allowed to enter into contracts for “last-mile delivery.” She also has proposed that postal officials use their property, such as land around the post office in Vail, for the installation of package-handling hubs and for affordable housing for employees.

Around Crested Butte, “more Amazon and UPS packages are being delivered directly to homes,” which has reduced wait times this summer at the post office, Mayor Ian Billick said in an email to The Denver Post.

“We are worried about whether those improvements will be sustained,” said Billick, who also serves as director of the Rocky Mountain Biological Laboratory north of town where for nearly a century scientists from around the world have been conducting research.

“Our scientists have learned that time-sensitive materials have to be delivered using UPS or FedEx,” and for researchers relying on the USPS for personal supplies, post office “service was so bad in 2022 that we had to hire someone to stand in line to pick up mail,” he said.

“There’s no doubt that living in remote areas like Crested Butte will never be as convenient as big cities. But many of the problems our community has experienced with mail delivery, including inadequate staffing, erratic hours, charging for mailboxes despite the lack of home delivery, and lost mail, are not the result of our remote location.”

Don’t get me wrong; I’ve seen and admired many of Colorado’s lakes, but may I propose Banff National Park in Canada for your next alpine lake adventure?

The trek to the northern section of the Rockies is just a two-hour flight from Denver to Calgary International Airport, followed by a 90-minute drive into the park.

From the first sign, you’ll be blown away by the views. The mountains have rock faces at a scale you just don’t see in Colorado. And every lake is a different hue of vibrant blue or green.

Plus, who doesn’t love a hike-in-only teahouse? The area has a few of these historic cafes, which were the inspiration for this trip. There is truly nothing like drinking a piping cup of peach apricot white tea on a drizzly August day overlooking Lake Agnes. Add that to your bucket list!

I spent a week exploring with my friend in Banff and Lake Louise and we only saw a portion of this beautiful park. But I’ll share my highlights with you so you can plan to experience the wonder of the Canadian Rockies yourself.

(All prices are listed in USD.)

Logistics

Passport: Duh.

Parks day passes:

• Free for people under 17
• Adults $7.75 (age 18 to 64)
• Seniors $6.65 (age 65 and up)
• Family/Group $15.50 (up to seven people arriving together in a single vehicle at a National Park or National Historic site)

Book in advance: We booked our August campsite reservation back in March when they opened up — it was a frenzied experience that avid Colorado campers will know all too well.

Getting around: I’d suggest renting a car for pure convenience. Although the buses are highly encouraged by the Parks Canada staff, they are not the most reliable and don’t drop off near most of the trailheads. If you do plan to use the bus, download the Token Transit app before your visit to make buying passes easier.

Calgary to Banff: I’d highly recommend the bus service Brewster Express if you’re looking for an easy way to get from Calgary International Airport into the park or vice versa. They are efficient and operate by reservation only. My round trip from Calgary to Banff, then Lake Louise to Calgary, cost around $200.

Camping

Lake Louise Campground

This is a beautiful and well-maintained campground with drinking water, food storage, bathrooms and showers (with hot water, even). The tent camping area is protected by an electric fence to keep bears and other animals away. The firewood is free. The only downside is that despite the name, there is no lake access to Lake Louise from the campsite.

Two Jack Main Campground

This is a huge campsite right outside the town of Banff. It has its own Roam bus stop and is just a short walk from Two Jack Lake. There are no showers but there is drinking water, flushing toilets, sinks for dishwashing, bear boxes and free firewood.

If you’re leaving the campsite by bus, it’s free to use Roam Transit but you’ll have to pay on your way back.

Hikes

C-Level Cirque

• 5.8-mile out-and-back trail
• 2,490 feet of elevation gain

Get ready for an incline! This one is steep but the views are worth it. You’ll hike a part of Banff’s history when passing by old mining shafts along Cascade Mountain. Tip: When you come across the first mining building ruins, take the smaller trail offshoot behind the building for a view back toward Lake Minnewanka.

Plain of Six Glaciers — Big Beehive — Lake Agnes Tea House

• 11.3-mile loop
• 3,336 feet of elevation gain

If you only do one long hike, do this one. You seriously cannot beat it. You’ll see three alpine lakes (Lake Louise, Mirror Lake and Lake Agnes), visit two historic, hike-in-only teahouses, and hike to the glacier that feeds Lake Louise. You’ll do a steep incline with switchbacks to start, and spot a waterfall before stopping at the Lake Agnes Tea House for a pick-me-up. Continue around Lake Agnes, where you’ll summit the Big Beehive, and then turn back around to hike downhill in the forest, where you’ll follow a river toward the glacier and second teahouse. Then, it’s downhill until you wind up on the backside of Lake Louise to finish off the loop. There are many ways to make this trail shorter but I’d highly recommend the full loop as well as stopping at the teahouses for a steaming cup of tea, a sandwich or a bowl of soup.

Sulphur Mountain Trail

• 6.7-mile out-and-back trail
• 2,490 feet of elevation gain

You could take the eight-minute gondola to the top of Sulphur Mountain or you could spend two glorious hours sweating your way up the switchback climb. Either way, the top will service gorgeous views, as do many of the lookouts along the trail. Got tired on the climb? You can take the gondola back down or test your knees’ endurance on the descent. The best part? The trailhead is also the parking lot for the Banff Upper Hot Springs (see below).

Other things to do

Sunrise bus ride to Moraine Lake

This is a must-do activity. Roll out of your sleeping bag at the crack of dawn to catch the 4 a.m. bus from Lake Louise Village up to Moraine Lake. Cars are no longer allowed up to the lake due to popularity so you have to book a shuttle anyway; might as well make it for sunrise! You’ll hike up to the rockpile in the dark and the sun will rise behind you and illuminate the lake and its vibrant aqua water. If you have clear skies, you’ll be able to see the nine peaks that surround the lake, too.

Pro tip: Bring along your camp stove (shoutout to JetBoil) so you can make coffee while you wait in the cold.

$128, morainelakebus.com

Via ferrata at Mount Norquay

If you want a break from the hiking, try tackling a via ferrata. It is a protected climbing route where you’re using steel cables, rungs and ladders to climb. No climbing skills are required and this activity is available to people over 12. The views are incredible. If you’re not already a climber, this may be your chance to hang off a rocky cliff without risking a fall. The views were spectacular and the guides are awesome.

$135-$275 depending on the route, banffnorquay.com

Banff Upper Hot Springs

A first-come, first-serve mineral hot spring that looks out over Banff. The single pool is hot and is a great option for muscle recovery if you have been hiking a lot like we were.

$12.17 for adults, $10.50 for kids and seniors, hotsprings.ca/banff

Banff Ave Brewing Co.

There are some things that just taste better after a long day on the trail. A giant bowl of french fries and a White Wit (5% ABV) from this local brewery really hit the spot for us.

110 Banff Ave., 2nd Floor Clock Tower Village Mall, banffavebrewingco.ca

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Take the scenic route to Aspen

Your adventure begins with a couple of stops as you drive over the Continental Divide on your way to town. Independence Pass (12,095 feet elevation at the summit) is one of the highest paved point-to-point roads in Colorado. (Trail Ridge Road and Cottonwood Pass are slightly higher in elevation.)

The pass road began as a trail for miners and pack animals and expanded by 1881 to a stage route connecting Aspen and Leadville. At the summit, make time for a quick hike to the scenic overlook or along one of the adjacent trails. (You can even tackle a couple of thirteeners from here.)

Plan to stop again at the small parking area about 3 miles west of the summit to explore Independence, a scenic ghost town.

In the late 1800s, Ashcroft, Aspen and Independence were booming mining towns. A prospector is said to have struck a rich vein of gold on July 4, 1879, prompting the name for the camp that had been known as Farwell, Chipeta, Sparkhill and other names that didn’t stick. In 1881 and 1882 the town’s population swelled to 1,500 and it boasted more than 40 stores. The mill processed more than $190,000 in gold in two years (about $5.34 million today).

By 1883, ore production dramatically dropped, and miners went in search of fortune elsewhere. Independence quickly turned into a shadow of itself and nearly every resident had left by 1900.

Walking to the remains of the town’s business district, you get a glimpse of what mining life was like at 10,830 feet. The setting is picturesque but life in Independence was tough because of its isolation and harsh weather. Even in summer it can be cold and windy here, so make sure you wear layers.

The ghost town is well preserved, thanks to the Aspen Historical Society. It’s a living history lesson. As you wander around and even into some of the old cabins and buildings, you can see rusted tin cans, bottles and other remnants of everyday life in the late 1800s.

The Farwell Mill is a half-mile from the business district. If you walk there from Independence you’ll follow the steps of miners, as the path was part of the road connecting Independence to Aspen and Ashcroft. You also can drive to a parking lot for the Farwell Mill.

There are trailheads on the west side of the pass with wonderful hikes if you need to stretch your legs, but plan to arrive in Aspen in time to join a downtown walking tour led by a docent from the Aspen Historical Society, which is celebrating its 60th anniversary this year.

There are many historic buildings in Aspen, and taking a guided tour is a fun way to learn the back stories. The oldest building, the Andres, dates to 1885. It was a haberdashery in the late 1800s and early 1900s and now houses Prada. I really enjoyed learning about Aspen’s re-invention from a mining town filled with fortune seekers to a world-class ski and outdoor destination during one of these tours.

If you can afford it, splurge on a stay at the historic Hotel Jerome, which opened in 1889 as a boarding house. It’s one of the oldest hotels west of the Mississippi River. Walking into the lobby, it feels like you’re stepping back to a bygone era. The Living Room, which is one of my favorite hideaways in Aspen, is a great place to spot celebrities.

Even if you don’t stay at the Jerome, visit the infamous J-Bar where cowboys once rode horses indoors, 10th Mountain Division soldiers gathered, and writer and one-time mayoral candidate Hunter S. Thompson set up his de facto office. The burgers are legendary and so is the Aspen Crud, a bourbon-spiked vanilla milkshake created when the J-Bar was a soda foundation during Prohibition.

For dinner, head over to Aspen’s restaurant row. They don’t take reservations at Meat and Cheese Restaurant and Farm Shop, but it’s worth a visit. While you wait for a table to enjoy globally inspired dishes, head downstairs to Hooch Craft Cocktail Bar. The rustic-chic bar is a mash-up of flea market treasures and high-end antiques with a speakeasy vibe.

Admittedly, Aspen’s hotels are pricey. For a nearby oasis, enjoy the 40 acres of rolling meadows at the newly renovated Aspen Meadows Resort (from about $300; look for special shoulder-season rates for Colorado residents) or check out the European chalet-inspired St. Moritz Lodge, one of the area’s best-kept secrets for affordable accommodations (from about $230).

If you’d rather stay in a condo, try The Gant (from about $350), which is celebrating its 50th anniversary this year. For over-the-top five-star luxury, The Little Nell (from about $600) is Aspen’s crème de la crème.

Explore grottos and cascades and then bike to lunch

Early birds catch the worms – and early hikers get the grottos and cascades to themselves. On one visit, my friend and I got to the Grottos Trail at 6:45 a.m. and had the sites to ourselves.

From the trailhead it takes about five minutes to get to the entrance of the grottos, or ice caves. There’s a sign in front of the opening in the boulders where you climb down about six feet. Inside, you’ll find giant slabs of jagged ice, rocks and boulders that stand in striking contrast to the smooth walls. Scramble out and continue along the trail to see the cascading falls as the sun comes up over the mountains. By the time you get back to the parking area, it likely will be filling up with visitors.

When you get back to town grab a coffee or smoothie at Jus Aspen and stroll over to the John Denver Sanctuary for a mellow adventure. In the Song Garden, native river boulders are engraved with lyrics from some of Denver’s popular songs, including “Rocky Mountain High.” Listening to the rhythms of the Roaring Fork River while reading the lyrics is a relaxing respite in this bustling mountain town. The singer lived in Aspen for most of his adult life.

If you’re visiting downtown on a Saturday morning between mid-June and early October, stroll through the lively Aspen Saturday Market to pick up Colorado produce and artisan goods. The market is one of my favorites in the state.

Rent a bike (I suggest Four Mountain Sports) and ride along the Rio Grande Trail. It’s an 8-mile ride to Woody Creek Tavern, a great place for lunch. You’ll cruise along the shaded, paved path that follows the Roaring Fork River for the first couple of miles. Cool off in the spray from a series of small waterfalls before hitting the McLain Flats section. You’ll be in full sun here, so make sure you take sun protection and water.

Woody Creek Tavern is legendary. Eccentric writer Hunter S. Thompson was a regular patron. Polaroid snapshots of guests cover the walls. Chow down on a burger, sandwich or tacos. The portions are huge, and the margaritas are strong (so strong they come with a warning). The ride back to town likely will keep you from overindulging.

If the afternoon weather is fine, take the gondola up Aspen Mountain. The views are stunning, and the nature trail is an easy hike to enjoy wildflowers. After your ride back down, pop over to the Ajax Tavern for happy hour on the patio. The truffle fries are a must!

Lakes, a ghost town and iconic views near Aspen

Hikers have plenty of local options during their visit. For a bit of a challenge, try the 5.6-mile round-trip hike to Cathedral Lake. To fuel up, grab coffee and burritos at Paradise Bakery, a locals’ favorite. The Cathedral Lake trailhead is just beyond Ashcroft, a ghost town, on Castle Creek Road.

The hike starts in a pine, aspen and fern forest. You’ll feel as if you’ve stepped into a fairytale. The trail ascends quickly along Pine Creek and then opens through some old rockslides and meadows before a series of short and steep switchbacks that will make your thighs and lungs burn. From the top of the switchbacks, it’s about another 15 minutes to the beautiful alpine lake at 11,866 feet. If you’re a wildflower wanderer, this trail is top-notch in peak season.

Ashcroft itself is worth a visit. Sitting at 9,500 feet elevation in the picturesque Castle Creek Valley, Ashcroft was founded as a mining town in 1880 and had 2,000 residents at its peak. You can explore some of the miners’ cabins, a saloon, and a hotel.

For a leisurely lunch, make a reservation at Pine Creek Cookhouse near Ashcroft. The food is outstanding. For an excellent grab-and-go lunch, pick up empanadas at Francesca’s Pasta Market and Empanadas in an unassuming strip center near the Aspen Airport. It’s another locals’ fav.

No trip to the area is complete without visiting the Maroon Bells Scenic Area. Plan ahead since reservations are required whether you want trailhead parking or a ride on the shuttle from Aspen Highlands. Maroon Lake is busiest in the morning. You can avoid crowds by visiting mid-afternoon, but make sure to take rain gear to protect yourself against summer showers. The clouds and fog of a summer storm give the Bells a mystical aura.

When you’re back in Aspen, have an early dinner of gourmet hand-tossed pizza in The Lounge at the Limelight Hotel while you enjoy live music. If large, contemporary rooms are your vibe, The Limelight (from about $430) is a great option to stay in downtown Aspen.

Newbie and veteran anglers will want to cast a line in the area’s Gold Medal waters. Some of the best trout fishing in the world is found along the Roaring Fork and Fryingpan rivers. Off-roaders will enjoy exploring Montezuma Basin in the Maroon Bells Snowmass Wilderness or Taylor Pass in the White River National Forest.

There also are great spots for rock climbing, mountain biking, and paragliding. Paddleboarders will enjoy the calm stretch of the Roaring Fork River running through the North Star Preserve. Or join a Hatha yoga class held atop Aspen Mountain. For a look at the town’s cultural side, plan your trip during one of Aspen’s infamous music festivals or schedule a visit to the Bayer Center.

Whatever your speed, Aspen’s adventurous side shines in the summertime.

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From 1858 until the silver crash of 1893, towns popped up almost overnight where gold or silver was found. Just as quickly, the vast majority were abandoned when the ore ran out, often in places so difficult to reach even today that you’ll wonder how the miners managed daily life.

Most of these hamlets are gone, but the mountains are littered with their crumbling remains – cabins, bunkhouses, stores and mining structures. They stand as a testament to the pioneers’ ingenuity and monuments to their often-broken dreams.

Visiting these places is akin to stepping back in time. Some you can reach on dirt roads passable in the family sedan. Others require a four-wheel-drive vehicle. Still others remain deep in the wilderness, reachable by lacing up a pair of sturdy hiking boots. Each has its own unique story of success and then failure.

This is your guide to touring some of Colorado’s best-preserved ghost towns. Keep in mind that old mines are dangerous and can be home to explosive or poisonous gases. People have died falling into shafts, so explore with care and don’t get too close.

Bachelor Loop, Creede

The last great mining boom in Colorado was centered in the San Juan Mountains. Silver was struck here in 1890, and within two years there were dozens of mines and boom towns around what is today the town of Creede. The frenzy of activity was short-lived. In 1893 the Sherman Silver Purchase Act was repealed to resolidify the gold standard; the federal government stopped buying silver and the mines collapsed.

Unlike many of Colorado’s old mining towns, Creede itself is still there, a tourist hotspot. The Creede Repertory Theatre draws enthusiasts from across the country each summer. You can drive the scenic 17-mile Bachelor Loop above town and take a trip past some of the best-preserved mine sites in Colorado. There are several interpretive signs and stops of interest. Those with four-wheel-drive can take side roads deeper into the terrain. Cyclists are encouraged to take the loop counter-clockwise, tackling most of the climbing in the first 4 miles.

Crystal Mill

This picturesque old mill, perched on the side of a waterfall, is one of the most Instagrammed spots in Colorado. The mill was built in 1893 to support the Sheep Mountain Tunnel mine near the present town of Marble. It generated compressed air that powered tools used by the miners. The mine limped on until 1917 when it closed. A few people still spend summers in cabins in the nearby hamlet of Crystal, once home to about 500 people.

You need a sturdy vehicle – preferably four-wheel-drive or off-highway – to get to the mill from Marble. Otherwise it’s a 4-mile hike each way along the road. The site’s beauty is worth every step. Heed all signs marking private property. (Note: It costs $10 to access the private property from which some of the most iconic photos are taken.)

Ghost Town Hollow

You’ll need a pair of hiking shoes to reach the remnants of this settlement at about 11,800 feet elevation on Pikes Peak. The cabin foundations and old boilers are all that remain of an effort to blast a tunnel into the heart of the mountain in search of valuable metals. A fatal explosion terminated the endeavor, and the mine entrance was sealed about a dozen years ago to keep people out.

To get there drive the Pikes Peak Highway ($5-$15 per person age 6 or older; discounts per carload) to mile marker 14 and park at the Elk Park trailhead. It’s an easy 1.4-mile downhill hike to an intersection. Turn right at the sign for the Oil Creek Tunnel and it’s a half-mile uphill to the ghost town.

Holy Cross City

This town gets its name from nearby Mount of the Holy Cross. The town itself was once home to 300 people and had a post office and hotel, but it was abandoned by the 1890s. Semi-intact buildings and rusted boilers and other equipment remain. You can get there by driving the original road built in 1883, now known as Holy Cross Jeep Trail 759. Note that the U.S. Forest Service says it is one of the more difficult four-wheel-drive roads in Colorado due to rocks and boulders.

You can hike the road, 4 miles each way, to each the site. For a quieter experience hike from the Fancy Lakes Trailhead into the Holy Cross Wilderness and turn right at the sign for the ghost town, a round-trip distance of 7.5 miles. If time permits take a detour to Fancy Lake, a gorgeous alpine lake that makes a great stop for lunch or an overnight camp.

Independence

Independence Pass is one of the highest and prettiest paved roads in Colorado, connecting Aspen with the rest of the world to the east in the warmer months. The name comes from this town founded in 1879 high in the snowy tundra at about 11,000 feet. By 1882 the town had a population of 1,500, 40 businesses and three post offices. When the gold ran out most people fled this harsh climate.

A few hung on until 1899, when one of the worst snowstorms in Colorado history cut them off and they faced starvation. Homes were dismantled to make skis and residents fled Independence, never to return. The remaining buildings – eight largely intact – have been preserved by the Aspen Historical Society. Interpretive signs share the town’s history.

You can’t miss the ghost town while driving on Independence Pass; it’s right along the highway.

Mayflower Gulch

Pull out your hiking shoes. This hike, which starts off Fremont Pass between Leadville and Copper Mountain, leads into a stunning mountain cirque littered with mining remains. The trail follows the road built in the 1890s when miners created the Boston Mine. Some $500,000 in gold and silver were produced and a robust village formed. But before long it was abandoned as the ore was deemed to be impure.

It’s a popular hike, an easy 3 miles to the old town itself. You can continue on a fine trail higher into the basin to discover more mining buildings.

Red Mountain Pass

There are too many mines and ghost towns to name on this stunning mountain pass between the towns of Ouray and Silverton. They are built along perilous cliffs, with equipment spanning dizzying chasms. Most of the mining occurred between 1882 and 1893, and the towns and hamlets are victims of the same silver crash that closed so many mines.

You can see most of the buildings from the road, U.S. 550, but you may want to park and wander around the townsite of Ironton, where some residents clung on until the 1970s. The trails and preserved buildings are the result of work by the Red Mountain Task Force, which purchased 8,500 acres to preserve and installed interpretive signs that share the area’s history with visitors.

St. Elmo

It’s rare to find an open general store in a ghost town, but you will in St. Elmo near Mount Princeton, southwest of Buena Vista. In its heyday around 1890, some 2,000 people lived in the town. Many of them worked in roughly 150 mines dotting the hillsides. The railroad was extended below the Continental Divide into the Gunnison Valley, making the town an important railroad hub.

St. Elmo followed the typical trajectory of former mining towns: years of decline and then near desertion when the railroad stopped. Legend has it the last of St. Elmo’s full-time residents rode the last train out of town in 1926.

Tourism revived the area and many buildings were preserved. The St. Elmo General store is open throughout summer. Visitors can buy antiques, souvenirs and refreshments.

Passenger cars can easily reach the ghost town on County Road 162. Area roads get rougher after that, though sturdy four-wheel-drive vehicles can continue to Tincup Pass. There are hiking and mountain biking trails in the area.

Summitville

This town, built at 11,000 feet elevation, offers a different side of Colorado’s mining history. One of the earliest booms in the San Juan Mountains began here in 1876 in the rugged country south of the towns of Del Norte and South Fork. By 1890 there were as many as 1,500 residents and nine mills. Slow decline followed as the mills were shuttered and the post office closed in 1912.

It’s a long drive to reach this site, 30 miles up Park Creek Road from U.S. 160, but passenger cars can make it in dry weather.

Unlike other ghost towns, Summitville had a second act, and Colorado is still paying for it. A Canadian company established a pit mine here, but mismanaged it, spreading toxic chemicals to area watersheds. Today the area is a Superfund site and is known as one of the worst environmental disasters in the state’s  history.

The mining buildings are well-preserved, but so is the modern water treatment station, which is full of brackish, toxic water that should serve as a reminder of the downside of the mining booms that helped build Colorado.

In 2021, Binder and her partners, Jodie and Bruce Wright of One Architects, opened CampV, a 120-acre campground located near what used to be a thriving mining town on Colorado’s Western Slope. A visit includes glamping options and interactive artwork set against stunning desert views, as well as a lesson in local history.

“When I travel, I look for spaces that tell a story,” Binder said. “I felt like this not only had an incredible story, but it also had a story that was worth preserving and retelling.”

The “V” in CampV stands for Vancorum, the name of an enclave built by the Vanadium Corporation of America to house engineers and managerial staff who worked for a nearby uranium mine in the town of Uravan. Uravan is long gone, evacuated and demolished due to the presence of radioactive materials in the mid-1980s, but the enclave — where no mining ever took place — in Naturita remains. And now it’s being given new life.

Since purchasing the property, Binder and the Wrights renovated more than a dozen cabins, originally built in the 1940s, into modern mountainside sanctuaries complete with amenities such as gas fireplaces, colorful kitchenettes, patios with grills, and record players complete with vinyl collections.

The partners added several Airstream trailers, also available for rent, and glamping tents of various shapes and sizes. There are also RV hookups and tent sites, providing options for a variety of camping styles.

Because it’s located on a hill, CampV’s property is naturally subdivided into three sections. Most of the lodging resides on what Binder calls “middle V,” which is the hub of activity and art. At the base of the hill, “lower V” offers riverside tent camping and a pond where guests can swim or paddleboard. Binder also repurposed a bus she found on the property as the centerpiece of an outdoor lounge area there.

Binder calls the area at the highest point of elevation “upper V.” That’s where guests will find some additional camping spots and a historic water tower that often plays host to yoga and meditation classes. It’s a killer spot for stargazing, Binder said, and open for campers to use every night.

Large-scale artworks are peppered throughout the grounds. The most awe-inspiring is the Prairie Wind Chapel, dubbed one of the most incredible works of Burning Man art ever made by Business Insider. Binder met the chapel’s artist, Robert Hoehn, when she attended the Burning Man festival in 2019. Hoehn decided to make Naturita the open-air temple’s permanent home, so guests can now sit on the benches beneath the canvas structure and gawk at its ornate details, including a restored pipe organ.

Binder said her experience at Burning Man was instrumental in helping her envision what kind of potential CampV has as a cultural hotspot for visitors. But more importantly, she hopes to offer something special to locals within the community. Both of Binder’s parents were raised near Naturita and her father lived at Vancorum while the mine was operational.

“One of our biggest mantras is that rural communities deserve access to world-class art and programming,” said Binder, who grew up in Green River, Wyo. “These events, from outside looking in you might say ‘Oh, you’re just throwing a party.’ But no, we’re building community.”

To that end, Binder is booking the calendar with events like recent documentary screenings in partnership with Telluride’s Mountainfilm festival. The venue is also available for weddings and other private events.

Binder’s signature event, Planet V Fest (May 26-29), is currently gearing up for its second year when the property will come alive with live music, comedy, yoga, art-focused workshops, bonfires and more. The event started as a private gathering of Burners in 2020 before welcoming the wider community.

While Planet V is sure to attract more than 300 travelers to this hidden gem in Naturita, Binder’s long-term goal is to support local tourism to the point that it becomes a burgeoning industry. The region’s economy has been devastated in the transition away from mining and nothing has yet filled that void, Binder said.

“We want to continue to grow our music and art offerings, but also the future is continuing to introduce more people to this space and be part of building an outdoor recreation economy, which has some momentum. But at this point it’s not a sustainable economy based in outdoor recreation,” she said.

The next phase of growth at CampV includes putting a $2 million grant from Colorado Creative Industries to work building employee housing and an outdoor performance pavilion. Part of the funds will go toward renovating an existing house on site to be a public arts and maker space, Binder said. She expects to break ground on all those projects this summer.

If you go

CampV is open year-round and accepts reservations for its cabins, glamping spots, RV hookups and more at campv.com. Summer is typically the busiest season, Binder said.

CampV offers some food options, which are available to pre-order ahead of a reservation. Otherwise, guests are able to bring their own food and drinks to wherever they camp.

Planet V Fest takes place May 26-29 and offers guests a rare opportunity to set up a tent anywhere on the property. Single-day tickets with camping range from $95 to $145. A three-day pass costs $215 and includes several meals; camping is sold separately. See all the lodging options at planetvfest.com.

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Colorado nature photographer and environmentalist John Fielder sat on a couch inside his Summit County home recently gazing at jagged Gore Range mountains, not through the frame of a camera but a window — a spectacular scene among thousands that he has immortalized.

A herd of elk had passed outside. A mountain grouse had been singing at the door.

“Here I am at 72,” Fielder said, “and cancer is trying to take my life.”

He’s been enduring pancreatic cancer by relying on the same rational approach he honed in handling countless “curveballs” nature hurled while he covered all of Colorado’s 104,094 square miles photographing landscapes. Vehicle breakdowns above timberline, rafts flipping in whitewater rapids dumping him and all his gear, bears bulling into his camp, sudden storms plunging temperatures below freezing — all became challenges for the father of three to overcome by using brainpower, avoiding panic, and summoning strength the way a mountain climber does in ascent.

Fielder also got through personal tragedies — losing his wife, Gigi, after she was diagnosed at 52 with Alzheimer’s disease. He suffered especially after his son died by suicide.

“You know, I have had to self-rescue myself, get out of difficult situations, over 100 times before,” Fielder said. “To me, this is simply self-rescue number 101. It is a problem to be solved.”

Chemotherapy interrupts a slower existence he’d envisioned, skiing with titanium-reinforced knees, hiking and taking photos in Colorado’s Blue River Valley. But the cancer, diagnosed a year ago, also has spurred Fielder to review his life’s work and focus on his mission: helping Coloradans respect nature, most urgently by slowing global warming and stopping environmental destruction.

Taken together, his photos over nearly 50 years give residents an unprecedented perspective on their natural heritage and how large-scale settlement has affected landscapes where the previous human inhabitants, native tribes, lived sustainably on the land. The photos — including 7,300 entrusted to the public at the state’s History Colorado repository — have become the main visual baseline for assessing changes as the climate warms.

“No matter what happens to me in the next six months, my photos are there at History Colorado,” he said as he sat. “Whatever we can do to stave off the impacts of climate warming, maybe my photos can be part of that.”

Fielder grew up in North Carolina, nudged toward a life in commerce. His father excelled in that arena, building up the Ivey’s department store chain and embracing public service. Upon graduation from Duke University, Fielder fell into work as a real estate broker and, married in 1982 with two children and a third on the way, was managing a May D & F store in south metro Denver.

He and Gigi made an escape plan for a life lived largely outdoors. He would turn his nature photography hobby into a business by selling photo calendars and coffee table books. Forty years later, he tallies some 50 collections of photos he has published with roughly 1 million copies sold.

One book — “Colorado: 1870 to 2000” — leverages 19th century photos by William Henry Jackson, who was sent by the U.S. Geological Survey to document western territories at a time when census records show Colorado had 39,864 residents. Fielder re-photographed what Jackson saw and created a side-by-side comparison at the start of the 21st century — when Colorado had 4.3 million residents and industries including cattle ranching; mining of gravel, gold, coal, gas, and oil; house-building; and tourism. He dedicated the book to the people of Colorado, urging them to “examine our relationship with the land,” declaring “there is no more beautiful place on Earth than Colorado” and “very few places more fragile.”

His photos of high mountains and valleys exposed Colorado to the world, drawing tens of thousands of visitors and new residents and inspiring some to value the wildness that remained in the West. Perhaps only John Denver, with his song “Rocky Mountain High,” drew more attention to Colorado, said Jerry Mallet, a former Chaffee County commissioner who runs the river protection organization Colorado Headwaters.

Looking back, Fielder wrestles with his role. “Obviously, too many people in one place, too many footprints, can destroy the very place you want to protect,” he said. “But the more people that go out and smell, taste, touch, hear, as well as see, Colorado, the more people are likely to vote for the right candidates and issues on their ballots — to not only repair environmental damage but to protect these areas.”

In the early 1990s, he decided he had to do more to save the natural landscapes he photographed. An environmental movement in the state gained momentum under Fielder’s leadership, Mallet said.

Fielder observed a widening degradation from multiple threats: development devouring open space, tourists overrunning national parks, and now the ruinous fires, droughts, and extreme storms driven by climate warming.

His advocacy began as Sen. Tim Wirth was leading work under the nation’s 1964 Wilderness Act to save land in Colorado that was “untrammeled by man” and “retaining its primeval character.” Fielder went out and photographed pristine terrain for a book circulated to county commissioners, mayors, chambers of commerce, and others whose support was required for the federal government to designate wilderness.

Now retired, Wirth credits Fielder as “an integral part of the effort” that set aside more than 600,000 acres of Colorado as wilderness. Fielder “is a wonderful enthusiast and advocate, and his photos surely helped to persuade many Coloradans to support our work,” Wirth said.

Former Congressman David Skaggs, who carried the Colorado Wilderness Act of 1993 to final passage, said Fielder’s photos “served to convey something spiritual about the wilderness” that may have “seeped into the pores of some of our skeptical colleagues.”

Fielder also lobbied for land preservation through Great Outdoors Colorado, the program voters launched in 1992 directing the use of Colorado Lottery revenues to protect wildlife habitat and river corridors and to improve parks and trails. And as Colorado’s population exploded, reaching 5.87 million this year, he supported environmental projects, such as efforts to ensure sufficient water in the upper Colorado, Yampa, and Dolores rivers and protect the canyons they carve as new wilderness.

“He’s one of the most consequential conservationists in Colorado history,” said Save the Colorado River Director Gary Wocker, a longtime friend. Fielder has focused on “art and beauty. … a side of things that humans value,” Wockner said. “He knew that, by taking these beautiful photos and selling them, he was probably leading more people to visit the places. But he wasn’t just commodifying them. He has dedicated his life to protecting those places — and restoring them.”

Damage over four decades of population growth and urbanization in Colorado could have been worse, Fielder said, lauding voters who sometimes made saving nature a priority. “We have accomplished much in the past 23 years to deflect inappropriate development.”

But he has seen a transformation.

“Back in the 1980s, there just weren’t as many folks hiking and camping for the sake of just getting away from the city to enjoy the sounds, smells, taste, and touch — the sensuousness of nature.” Crowded conditions inside costly Front Range cities increasingly drive more people out. “People follow other people to the same places they read about online.”

Climate warming with temperatures rising nearly twice as fast as the global average in western Colorado is shrinking snow and favoring droughts, ruinous fires, and insect infestations — ravaging forests where he used to shoot photos. “Just about all of our Colorado forests between 10,000 feet and 12,000 feet in elevation now are dead, not to mention 5 million acres of dead lodgepole pine forest at lower elevations. I can no longer make a beautiful photograph of green trees in the foreground of a Rocky Mountain composition. And most of the snow and ice that were remnants of ancient glaciers has melted. I can no longer include in my designs the dramatic contrast of a white glacier nestled in a rocky cirque,” he said.

“As an artist, I am not sure I can deal with that.”

In the future, more people likely will move to western Colorado, requiring the preservation of more natural landscapes, he said, calling for greater funding by Congress and state lawmakers to make sure federal, state and local public land managers can keep ecosystems healthy.

Much will depend on how fast humans address climate change. Another decade of burning fossil fuels, emitting more heat-trapping carbon dioxide and other gases into the atmosphere, “doesn’t bode well for humanity and for biodiversity,” Fielder said. “We can’t stop climate warming, but we can slow it. There’s a difference between a place that is 120 degrees versus a place that is 100 degrees. That increment could make all the difference….The sooner we get out of the oil and gas business, the sooner we are not part of the problem.”

Meanwhile, on his 20 acres of forest and wildflower meadows, Fielder has been basking in the beauty of a place he has protected, stars still visible in the darkness of night, away from traffic and industrial noise, wonders of evolution over 4 billion years on display.

He counted the elk that surrounded his house — more than 30. The mountain grouse at the door, the first of spring, sang as if wild birds no longer were imperiled.

“With this cancer now, I realize how fortunate I am to be in a place like this,” he said. “It makes all the difference in the world, being in the middle of nature.”

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The Colorado Natural Resources Damages Trustees approved the settlement — the latest in a series of payouts following the spill – Thursday morning.

Federal liability in the contamination comes from the fact that U.S. Environmental Protection Agency officials triggered the 3-million-gallon Gold King Mine spill. In addition, the U.S. Forest Service and Bureau of Land Management manage other areas with mines that have also been the source of contamination in the area.

The $5 million will go toward restoring areas damaged by the spill and other contamination left behind in the swathe of southwest Colorado’s San Juan County, Colorado Attorney General spokesman Lawrence Pacheco said in a release.

The area is so contaminated it’s classified as a federal Superfund Site, a designation reserved for the country’s most polluted areas.

“The damage to Southwestern Colorado natural resources remains a matter of great concern,” Colorado Attorney General Phil Weiser said in the release.

The settlement will set aside valuable money “to address these damages and invest in the restoration of natural resources in this part of the state,” Weiser, who is also chair of the state’s Natural Resources Trustees, added.

The $5 million will likely be pooled with other settlements made following the spill, Pacheco said in the release.

The Sunnyside Gold Corporation agreed in late 2021 to pay $1.6 million for cleanup efforts. The company agreed earlier that year to pay $10 million to the Navajo Nation and another $11 million to the state of New Mexico. From southwest Colorado, the Animas River flows south into New Mexico and through Navajo territory.

The mining company and its corporate owner — the Kinross Gold Corporation, based in Canada — also agreed last year to pay another $40.1 million to the federal government and $4 million to the Colorado Department of Public Health and Environment for additional cleanup efforts. In that 2022 settlement, the federal government agreed to kick in another $45 million.

While the seven-figure settlements do add up, the latest $5 million doesn’t amount to much compared to the estimated cleanup costs, Peter Butler, chair of the Bonita Peak Mining District Community Advisory Group.

Butler estimated that cleanup costs in the area could total $300 million, though he acknowledged much of the money goes towards attorney fees and documenting the damage rather than physical cleanup.

“It’s a drop in the bucket,” Butler said of the $5 million. But, he added, it’s still a positive step.

A cleanup crew led by EPA officials inadvertently triggered the Gold King Mine spill. The Denver Post reported after the incident that the agency official overseeing the work knew of the blowout danger beforehand.

The blowout sent at least 880,000 pounds of heavy metals into the Animas River, across three states and the land of two Native American tribes, turning the water a bright orange and raising concerns for aquatic wildlife and farmers downstream.

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Most Coloradans know about the Ludlow Massacre but know nothing about the massacre at the Columbine Mine near Serene, which had far more influence on America’s labor politics. Six miners died, and another 60 were wounded at the Columbine.

The strike polished the image of Josephine Roche, later part of Franklin Roosevelt’s cabinet. Roche was a Progressive who inherited control of Rocky Mountain Fuel Co., which owned the mine, and was credited with humanitarian actions during the strike. Author Leigh Campbell-Hale disputes that, claiming tight control over her image led to hagiographic portrayals of Roche by feminist historians. “She gave lip-service to democracy, industrial and otherwise, but her actions often contradicted her own press releases,” writes Campbell-Hale.

“Remembering Ludlow But Forgetting Columbine” is a heavily documented history of labor activity in the Colorado coal fields. One intriguing tidbit: Roche was married briefly to a man who wrote scripts for the popular radio program “The Shadow.”

“The Art and Life of Merritt Dana Houghton.,” by Michael A. Amundson (University Press of Colorado)

Long before aerial photography, artists made bird’s-eye-view engravings of Western towns. Merritt Dana Houghton produced 35 of these drawings of towns, primarily in Wyoming but a few in Colorado, too. The process was exacting. He drew every building in a town, placing them on streets, with railroad tracks, gardens, telephone poles and trees, cows and carriages.

Houghton began as a photographer but quickly turned to drawing. He sketched scenes, then went over them in ink. He turned out some 200 ranch views, mining scenes, and landscapes as well as the bird’s-eye-views. His pictorial work is more reportorial than fine art. Still, he documented much of Wyoming’s early economic growth.

“Merritt Dana Houghton” is a well-researched biography of the artist, accompanied by a portfolio of Houghton’s works. Michael A. Amundson sheds light on a little-known Western artist. Born in 1846, Houghton died of the Spanish flu in 2019, just hours before his wife succumbed of the same illness.

“Bluebird Seasons,” by Mary Taylor Young (Chicago Review Press)

Essayist Mary Taylor Young thought she’d write about a single bluebird season when she and her husband, Rick, bought their Colorado vacation land near Trinidad. But over the years, she’s seen changes in the bluebirds. She’s watched the number of hummingbirds and elk decline and other deprivations brought about by climate change. So instead, “Bluebird Seasons” is about the changes in her land over the 30 years she has owned it.

A naturalist and zoologist, Young writes about the trickle-down ecological effect of warmer weather. Elk nibble on plants and trees that would normally be under snow. That means less vegetation for birds. Warmer temperatures result in an explosion of parasites that infect elk and other large mammals.

“Bluebird Seasons” is a painful look at the demise of birds and animals and flowers in one woman’s mountain yard. It’s also a pean to the wild things around us. Young’s chapter on hummingbirds is just plain lyrical.

“Grit, Not Glamour,” by Cheryl Mullenbach (Twodot)

While many of the women in “Grit, Not Glamour” tell of hardships, not all were as put upon as that unknown woman. In fact, many eschewed marriage and ran farms and ranches on their own. Gussie and Louise Lahm left a convent school to operate a California sheep and cattle ranch, where they fought forest fires and blizzards and poachers. Instead of lauding their efforts, an early 1900s newspaper questioned whether they should be allowed to wear overalls on the streets of San Francisco.

Author Cheryl Mullenbach writes about more than two dozen female pioneers who ran farms and ranches, raised grapes and ostriches, and worked to save buffalo from extinction. There are even a couple of bad girls who operated outside the law.

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Barr prefers it that way and has become something of an accidental apostle for climate researchers in the process. Since the 1970s, Barr has spent the winters in the woods recording daily snowfall and snowpack measures, as well as animal sightings, that help scientists understand the impacts of global warming and climate change in the Rocky Mountains.

But there are two things Barr doesn’t do: drink alcohol or socialize very much. Which is why he thought it was amusing when a hotel in Crested Butte approached him about naming a bar after him. Heck, he’s never even skied at the resort.

“The fact is it was nice of them to think of me and it’s kind of funny,” Barr said. “I’m glad my last name’s not like, privy, they would have named a toilet after me instead of a bar.”

The Elevation Hotel & Spa at the base of Crested Butte Mountain Resort recently debuted a new lobby lounge called billy barr as an homage to the local legend and his work. Skiers who stop by for a quick coffee or après-ski get a side of local history with their beverage, thanks to pictures of Barr adorning the walls, along with other memorabilia donated by the Rocky Mountain Biological Laboratory (RMBL) and Crested Butte Museum.

“Billy deserves a lot of recognition for what he’s doing,” Ian Billick, mayor of Crested Butte and executive director of RMBL, told The Denver Post. “It’s nice for tourists who visit the area to have a better appreciation of what makes the community special.”

Additionally, in March, Elevation Hotel plans to unveil another onsite watering hole called the Matchstick Lounge, inspired by locally-based ski film company, Matchstick Productions.

Barr, for his part, is modest about the work he’s done over the last half-century. When asked what first enticed him to start recording observations of his surroundings, he replied “nothing.”

In 1972, Barr relocated to Gothic from his hometown of Trenton, N.J. looking, simply, for some peace and quiet. For eight years, he lived in a mining shack with no electricity. But what he lacked in electric power he made up for in free time and natural curiosity.

“In New Jersey, I would have had to learn how to cross streets at busy intersections. Out here, I have to know snow conditions. So I just started writing things down,” he said. “After five winters of writing down daily weather and animal sighting and everything, I started looking back on the previous years.”

“It’s a wonderful example of citizen science,” Billick said. “His snow records are invaluable and help us understand long-term change and many scientists have taken advantage of them.”

So, too, has the billy barr lounge, where the cocktail menu reads like a weather forecast. The Snowdrift, for example, is a libation made with Aviation gin, D.O.M. Bénédictine liqueur, spirulina, lime and cedar simple syrup. The Frost is a variation of a Moscow mule made with bourbon and mint. And the Partly Cloudy features cognac, a citrus liqueur, lemon and orange.

The menu also includes a small selection of paninis and charcuterie.

Barr has not visited his namesake watering hole and he possibly never will. (“I haven’t been in a bar in decades and I’m not a great fan of crowded places,” especially considering COVID-19, he said.) Still, he hopes the information he’s collected about the climate “changing drastically” piques patrons’ interest the same way it piqued his own decades ago.

“Even forgetting about climate change, people have a curiosity as to, how much snow do we have now? What’s the average? Is this above average? What’s the water content?” Barr said. “There’s just a general interest in snow. That’s why people live here.”

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At one site, the Colorado National Guard and the Colorado Fuel and Iron Company attacked striking immigrant coal miners and their families who’d just endured the state’s snowiest winter in tent camps. They’d risked their lives in defiance of company owners, including John D. Rockefeller, who paid insufficient wages and forced workers to live in company housing and buy food in company stores. More than 20 people died, including 11 children, in the 1914 Ludlow Massacre.

At another location, U.S. troops slaughtered more than 230 native people, mostly women, children and tribal elders, some of them clutching U.S. flags they’d been promised would protect them. The killers removed body parts and paraded them from the prairie to Denver. Colorado Gov. John Evans supported the Sand Creek Massacre in 1864. He’d issued a proclamation saying state citizens could kill native people and take their land.

And down by the Arkansas River at Granada, the U.S. government imprisoned more than 7,000 Japanese-American citizens during World War II after President Franklin D. Roosevelt in 1942 ordered them removed from their homes. More than 120 died during this captivity in the chokingly dusty Camp Amache — named after the daughter of Cheyenne leader Lone Bear, who was killed at Sand Creek — where women collected rubble and created gardens to endure.

Now the federal government is laying foundations for more people to confront and better understand the troubling Colorado history represented by the three sites, which lie within 150 miles along the Arkansas River.

Horrific mistreatment happened “where people were seen as other than human,” said Rick Wallner, a retired parks ranger who directs the La Junta-based Canyons and Plains Regional Heritage Task Force, which is considering promotion around a “lessons for our time” theme.

Recent anti-Asian and antisemitic incidents and political polarization point to a need to “look back at the lessons of what happened in the past when that took hold in America,” Wallner said.

Travel oriented toward understanding history, and finding meaning, has emerged as a national trend following the George Floyd murder, tourism industry strategists say. They compare the sites concentrated in rural southeastern Colorado with the increasingly popular locations in the South related to the civil rights struggle and European sites around former Nazi forced-labor and death camps.

“There’s growing interest in our heritage — the good, bad and ugly,” said Amir Eylon, president of Longwoods International, a market research consultancy that has helped guide the Colorado Tourism Office.

“We as a nation right now are going through this questioning of who we are, how we evolved. It is a very good time for destinations like this — if they can bring those experiences to life and help to interpret them. It is a big opportunity.”

Federal authorities are in the process of taking over Amache, which formally was known as the Granada War Relocation Center, as a national historical site run by the National Park Service.

At Sand Creek, U.S. Interior Secretary Deb Haaland recently gathered with native people under cottonwood trees and announced an expansion that will more than double the size to 6,503 acres for restoration as short-grass prairie. A new Sand Creek Massacre exhibit at the state-run History Colorado museum in Denver explores how the killing decimated Cheyenne and Arapaho communities.

And at the Ludlow site, a national historic landmark designation creates a path for becoming a more developed destination. “My dream,” said former CF&I coal miner and United Mine Workers of America union leader Bob Butero, who has overseen the site for two decades, “is to have a museum where people can come and spend a couple of hours to actually know the story.”

“We’re all aware of the history that’s down here. We’ve known about it, and the importance of it not only for our region but the history of Colorado,” La Junta tourism director Pam Denahy said, noting a local increase in lodging tax revenues.

“We don’t turn away from encouraging people to come and see these sites — even though they’re from a difficult time in history,” she said.

High-level supporters include Sen. John Hickenlooper, who worked with Sen. Michael Bennet, a fellow Democrat, and Rep. Ken Buck, R-Windsor, to push the Amache designation through Congress.

“The first step of atonement is recognition,” Hickenlooper said in an interview while welcoming Biden administration officials recently under cottonwood trees at the Sand Creek site.

“There’s no question this was racism in a very pure form back then, just as at Amache,” he said. “The way that successful civilizations stay prosperous, and remain healthy, is by taking wisdom and lessons learned and passing them down to the next generation.”

“A chance to tell that fuller story”

Colorado officials are welcoming the federal push to raise the profile of these sites. They’ve given nearly $1 million to help the workers union maintain the Ludlow site, where contractors recently restored a cave that miners dug to try to hide women and children from attackers.

“More people need to understand this history, and I’m enthusiastic about any platform for educating people about how our ancestors stood up for freedom in this country,” said History Colorado and state historic preservation director Dawn DiPrince, who grew up in La Junta.

“Why is there so much tragedy in these places I love so much? Sometimes, we just need to ask questions. Are we a country defined by what people in power do?” DiPrince said, anticipating a difficult “reckoning” ahead.

“Yes, there have been horrific things, irrevocably horrible things. But, in the face of that, what remains are resilient people. Continued existence is a form of resistance. We should focus on the lives of people who endured so this country can become what it is. Are we a country of the people? Or are we a country of power gone awry?”

For the National Park Service, interpretations at the sites draw on growing bodies of research. University of Denver teams, for example, have explored prisoners’ creation of contemplative “zen gardens” at Amache. Federal staffers plan to improve signage, including signs in native languages.

“To forge that ‘more perfect union,’ we have to shed light on those things that are not necessarily the most positive aspects of our collective history,” National Park Service director Charles Sams said in an interview during the Biden administration visit at the Sand Creek site.

Developing remote sites like these presents challenges different from managing the often-overrun recreation-oriented park sites, such as Rocky Mountain National Park and the Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve, where rangers operate online camping and timed-entry reservation systems to control access.

“These are very rural sites. And we still want people to go to the bigger national parks, the iconic parks, like Yosemite, Yellowstone, Acadia, Zion,” Sams said. “But you can spend a solid week visiting these smaller national historic sites and have a deeper story and understanding of American history.”

It’s a matter of “finding the meaning,” he said. Schools often failed to present full details. “We have missed out on a lot. Now we have a chance to tell that fuller story.”

An opportunity to market history

The sites are located in a low-income part of the state that has struggled economically. Prolonged drought in southeastern Colorado, hard hit by the Dust Bowl disaster in the 1930s, has hurt the agriculture that long served as a mainstay. Sell-offs of water rights to Front Range cities have reduced farming that relied on irrigation. Cattle ranchers this past year had to sell parts of their herds. Future jobs at two private prisons have turned uncertain.

Local leaders say expanded tourism will help diversify the economy, bringing stability.

“We’re now looking at tourism through a full state lens,” Colorado Tourism Office director Tim Wolfe said.

While Colorado mountain resort towns increasingly raise concerns about traffic, crowds and commercialization, rural towns in southeastern Colorado may seek benefits by marketing themselves for increased visitation, Wolfe said.

The tourism industry revolves around “life cycles,” he said, and state officials will work with communities to define goals and sustain visitation.

“We’re working on how they want us to market these things,” Wolfe said.

Family road trips here, catching these historical sites and perhaps other attractions such as the Comanche National Grassland, certainly contrast with those along classic routes through the Grand Canyon and Disneyland to California beaches, Wallner said.

But the potential is huge, he said. “We don’t have an amusement park. But we do have places where you can learn the stories of our country.”