Although Aspen is known as a haven for the rich and famous, it’s also a spectacular playground for the adventurous, no matter the depth of one’s pocketbook. Here’s the perfect itinerary to maximize your fun during a long summer weekend in and around this high country town.
Take the scenic route to Aspen
Your adventure begins with a couple of stops as you drive over the Continental Divide on your way to town. Independence Pass (12,095 feet elevation at the summit) is one of the highest paved point-to-point roads in Colorado. (Trail Ridge Road and Cottonwood Pass are slightly higher in elevation.)
The pass road began as a trail for miners and pack animals and expanded by 1881 to a stage route connecting Aspen and Leadville. At the summit, make time for a quick hike to the scenic overlook or along one of the adjacent trails. (You can even tackle a couple of thirteeners from here.)
Plan to stop again at the small parking area about 3 miles west of the summit to explore Independence, a scenic ghost town.
In the late 1800s, Ashcroft, Aspen and Independence were booming mining towns. A prospector is said to have struck a rich vein of gold on July 4, 1879, prompting the name for the camp that had been known as Farwell, Chipeta, Sparkhill and other names that didn’t stick. In 1881 and 1882 the town’s population swelled to 1,500 and it boasted more than 40 stores. The mill processed more than $190,000 in gold in two years (about $5.34 million today).
By 1883, ore production dramatically dropped, and miners went in search of fortune elsewhere. Independence quickly turned into a shadow of itself and nearly every resident had left by 1900.
Walking to the remains of the town’s business district, you get a glimpse of what mining life was like at 10,830 feet. The setting is picturesque but life in Independence was tough because of its isolation and harsh weather. Even in summer it can be cold and windy here, so make sure you wear layers.
The ghost town is well preserved, thanks to the Aspen Historical Society. It’s a living history lesson. As you wander around and even into some of the old cabins and buildings, you can see rusted tin cans, bottles and other remnants of everyday life in the late 1800s.
The Farwell Mill is a half-mile from the business district. If you walk there from Independence you’ll follow the steps of miners, as the path was part of the road connecting Independence to Aspen and Ashcroft. You also can drive to a parking lot for the Farwell Mill.
There are trailheads on the west side of the pass with wonderful hikes if you need to stretch your legs, but plan to arrive in Aspen in time to join a downtown walking tour led by a docent from the Aspen Historical Society, which is celebrating its 60th anniversary this year.
There are many historic buildings in Aspen, and taking a guided tour is a fun way to learn the back stories. The oldest building, the Andres, dates to 1885. It was a haberdashery in the late 1800s and early 1900s and now houses Prada. I really enjoyed learning about Aspen’s re-invention from a mining town filled with fortune seekers to a world-class ski and outdoor destination during one of these tours.
If you can afford it, splurge on a stay at the historic Hotel Jerome, which opened in 1889 as a boarding house. It’s one of the oldest hotels west of the Mississippi River. Walking into the lobby, it feels like you’re stepping back to a bygone era. The Living Room, which is one of my favorite hideaways in Aspen, is a great place to spot celebrities.
Even if you don’t stay at the Jerome, visit the infamous J-Bar where cowboys once rode horses indoors, 10th Mountain Division soldiers gathered, and writer and one-time mayoral candidate Hunter S. Thompson set up his de facto office. The burgers are legendary and so is the Aspen Crud, a bourbon-spiked vanilla milkshake created when the J-Bar was a soda foundation during Prohibition.
For dinner, head over to Aspen’s restaurant row. They don’t take reservations at Meat and Cheese Restaurant and Farm Shop, but it’s worth a visit. While you wait for a table to enjoy globally inspired dishes, head downstairs to Hooch Craft Cocktail Bar. The rustic-chic bar is a mash-up of flea market treasures and high-end antiques with a speakeasy vibe.
Admittedly, Aspen’s hotels are pricey. For a nearby oasis, enjoy the 40 acres of rolling meadows at the newly renovated Aspen Meadows Resort (from about $300; look for special shoulder-season rates for Colorado residents) or check out the European chalet-inspired St. Moritz Lodge, one of the area’s best-kept secrets for affordable accommodations (from about $230).
If you’d rather stay in a condo, try The Gant (from about $350), which is celebrating its 50th anniversary this year. For over-the-top five-star luxury, The Little Nell (from about $600) is Aspen’s crème de la crème.
Explore grottos and cascades and then bike to lunch
Early birds catch the worms – and early hikers get the grottos and cascades to themselves. On one visit, my friend and I got to the Grottos Trail at 6:45 a.m. and had the sites to ourselves.
From the trailhead it takes about five minutes to get to the entrance of the grottos, or ice caves. There’s a sign in front of the opening in the boulders where you climb down about six feet. Inside, you’ll find giant slabs of jagged ice, rocks and boulders that stand in striking contrast to the smooth walls. Scramble out and continue along the trail to see the cascading falls as the sun comes up over the mountains. By the time you get back to the parking area, it likely will be filling up with visitors.
When you get back to town grab a coffee or smoothie at Jus Aspen and stroll over to the John Denver Sanctuary for a mellow adventure. In the Song Garden, native river boulders are engraved with lyrics from some of Denver’s popular songs, including “Rocky Mountain High.” Listening to the rhythms of the Roaring Fork River while reading the lyrics is a relaxing respite in this bustling mountain town. The singer lived in Aspen for most of his adult life.
If you’re visiting downtown on a Saturday morning between mid-June and early October, stroll through the lively Aspen Saturday Market to pick up Colorado produce and artisan goods. The market is one of my favorites in the state.
Rent a bike (I suggest Four Mountain Sports) and ride along the Rio Grande Trail. It’s an 8-mile ride to Woody Creek Tavern, a great place for lunch. You’ll cruise along the shaded, paved path that follows the Roaring Fork River for the first couple of miles. Cool off in the spray from a series of small waterfalls before hitting the McLain Flats section. You’ll be in full sun here, so make sure you take sun protection and water.
Woody Creek Tavern is legendary. Eccentric writer Hunter S. Thompson was a regular patron. Polaroid snapshots of guests cover the walls. Chow down on a burger, sandwich or tacos. The portions are huge, and the margaritas are strong (so strong they come with a warning). The ride back to town likely will keep you from overindulging.
If the afternoon weather is fine, take the gondola up Aspen Mountain. The views are stunning, and the nature trail is an easy hike to enjoy wildflowers. After your ride back down, pop over to the Ajax Tavern for happy hour on the patio. The truffle fries are a must!
Lakes, a ghost town and iconic views near Aspen
Hikers have plenty of local options during their visit. For a bit of a challenge, try the 5.6-mile round-trip hike to Cathedral Lake. To fuel up, grab coffee and burritos at Paradise Bakery, a locals’ favorite. The Cathedral Lake trailhead is just beyond Ashcroft, a ghost town, on Castle Creek Road.
The hike starts in a pine, aspen and fern forest. You’ll feel as if you’ve stepped into a fairytale. The trail ascends quickly along Pine Creek and then opens through some old rockslides and meadows before a series of short and steep switchbacks that will make your thighs and lungs burn. From the top of the switchbacks, it’s about another 15 minutes to the beautiful alpine lake at 11,866 feet. If you’re a wildflower wanderer, this trail is top-notch in peak season.
Ashcroft itself is worth a visit. Sitting at 9,500 feet elevation in the picturesque Castle Creek Valley, Ashcroft was founded as a mining town in 1880 and had 2,000 residents at its peak. You can explore some of the miners’ cabins, a saloon, and a hotel.
For a leisurely lunch, make a reservation at Pine Creek Cookhouse near Ashcroft. The food is outstanding. For an excellent grab-and-go lunch, pick up empanadas at Francesca’s Pasta Market and Empanadas in an unassuming strip center near the Aspen Airport. It’s another locals’ fav.
No trip to the area is complete without visiting the Maroon Bells Scenic Area. Plan ahead since reservations are required whether you want trailhead parking or a ride on the shuttle from Aspen Highlands. Maroon Lake is busiest in the morning. You can avoid crowds by visiting mid-afternoon, but make sure to take rain gear to protect yourself against summer showers. The clouds and fog of a summer storm give the Bells a mystical aura.
When you’re back in Aspen, have an early dinner of gourmet hand-tossed pizza in The Lounge at the Limelight Hotel while you enjoy live music. If large, contemporary rooms are your vibe, The Limelight (from about $430) is a great option to stay in downtown Aspen.
Newbie and veteran anglers will want to cast a line in the area’s Gold Medal waters. Some of the best trout fishing in the world is found along the Roaring Fork and Fryingpan rivers. Off-roaders will enjoy exploring Montezuma Basin in the Maroon Bells Snowmass Wilderness or Taylor Pass in the White River National Forest.
There also are great spots for rock climbing, mountain biking, and paragliding. Paddleboarders will enjoy the calm stretch of the Roaring Fork River running through the North Star Preserve. Or join a Hatha yoga class held atop Aspen Mountain. For a look at the town’s cultural side, plan your trip during one of Aspen’s infamous music festivals or schedule a visit to the Bayer Center.
Whatever your speed, Aspen’s adventurous side shines in the summertime.
